Written by hand,
every morning

Rice, ragù and a mozzarella centre that pulls into a thread. One each is never enough.

Courgette flowers, anchovy and mozzarella, in a light batter.

Whole artichoke, fried open like a flower, coarse salt.

Lazio cured meats, pecorino, onion marmalade.

Tonnarelli, pecorino romano, pepper ground as it goes on. Nothing else.

Rigatoni, crisp guanciale, egg and pecorino. Never cream.

Ennio’s recipe, unchanged since 1964. Cloves, celery, three hours.

Ricotta and sour cherry tart, made in the morning. It usually goes by evening.